“Acid” Series For Element 2013

Here they are, the “Acid” series shaped for Element. A nice variety of super ergonomic and low profile edges, in-cuts, sloping rounders, jugs and of course the monster JUG in the middle I did this year. These should ALL be available soon online. I am sure if you call them now and ask they will set you up pre-web launch.. just tell them a garden gnome said it was ok! LOL!

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My New Pinches By 3-Ball

So 3-Ball finally got these pups molded and into full production. Great job on the hollow backing, makes these “loaves” super light yet strong. These are part of the sandstone line I have been doing for 3-Ball.

More stuff coming in 2013 like the big jugs, pockets and of course the giant birdbaths which I am super psyched to see get into full production. In the meantime get yourself a set of these pinches and train like a mad fish!

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Gym Review 3/4 “The Bloc”

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The climbing gym highlight of my 18 gym west coast tour was The Bloc Climbing & Fitness in Tucson, Arizona. I had read the intense buzz it was getting around the web and so I made it a primary point to put into my itinerary.

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The gym is owned by Jason Mullins, who was there when I arrived and gave me a very warm welcome. You can tell he is psyched about his new gym that opened in 2012. Its a 20,000sqft building with over 7,500sqft of wall stretching over 185ft wide. He was excited about being able to offer a new gym that was designed from the get-go with everything he wanted instead of doing an add-on type project like he did with the Rocks & Ropes in Tucson. Upon entry you encounter a massive counter space that is inviting and open with an well spaced retail area behind it. The waiver kiosk is well designed and has four sides to allow multiple people to enter information in the system.

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The gym is a long space laid out to be open and uncluttered. The gym also has a well designed yoga studio that overlooks the walls and a well thought out fitness area. There are two Treadwalls in the gym for those who want to train endurance. There were two keys for my visit of this gym, one is the Vertical Solutions wall with its Baltic birch veneer surfacing and diagonal patterning. The second was seeing firsthand the Futurist Climbing padding by the world renowned climber Timy Fairfield.

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I was truly taken by the smooth curvilinear nature of the wall design, all function with no fluff in my view. The bare wood grain sheeting with the contrasting red sections really give the walls “pop.” This gym made my heart skip beats and every second I was there I wished it could be helicoptered to Columbus, Ohio where I live. This gym is true game changer and really takes into account the audience for a competition setting. Jason took me on the grand tour of the back of the wall and the entire building which was nice to see the backstory of the design. It is a real gem of a space and logistically it lies at the base of the Mount Lemon climbing area, giving climbers excellent proximity to a year round facility to prepare you for the real rock just up the road.

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Tucson has a strong climbing community, the proximity to real rock and the great views in the area are just a few reasons it is a great location. If you are in the area and want to see a gym that is modern, clean and impressive… check out The Bloc.

New 3-Ball Matchable Holds!

During my visit to Three-Ball in late 2012, I suggested to Steve (Owner) that we make some “tweaks” of a few holds I shaped earlier that fall. The original three-pack was just in the throws of getting put into production for 2013. So one afternoon I took the master molds and did some creative squeezing to create two “new” holds to make the three pack of Sandstone matchables a fun suite of five that are now available and in full production.

Say hello to Freki, Centauri, Ego, Psyche & Forseti. To order some visit: www.threeballclimbing.com

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If anyone is curious what inspired me to create these holds, it was actually the first hold I shaped now called “Ego” based off the “match-rail” holds on the Undertow wall of the Motherload in the Red River Gorge, KY. The climbing there offers a veritable smorgasboard of matchable holds, so I wanted to shape an edge with that level of comfort that could be added into the sandstone series I’ve been working on for Three Ball. The “tweak” version called “Psyche” is more positive and incut then “Ego” making for a nice complimentary pairing. I have already been setting with them at the Kinetic Climbing & Fitness gym in Columbus, Ohio and they are a blast to use.

Included in this post is an image of the hollow-backing that the crew at Three Ball did to these five. It makes these holds super light yet crazy strong. The crew at Three Ball don’t miss a beat and the detail/quality is AWESOME on these holds. If you have a gym or are a setter get these pups for sure!

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